A focus on local, sustainable food at Rogues Experience

The Rogues Experience at Redhook Brewery on Jan. 11th provided an evening of seafood tastings and a screening of a new television show dedicated to local food.

Above: Local lobstermen, oyster farmers, and representatives from N.H. Fresh and Local Seafood and Taylor Lobster were at the Rogues Experience event to help educate the public about local seafood.

The upcoming culinary adventure travel show, Rogues on the Road, features locally produced/caught/foraged food and drinks. The two hosts of the show, Matt Frohman and Rich Marshall, introduced their pilot episode that was filmed in Banff, Alberta, Canada, followed by footage featuring N.H. lobstermen and oyster farmers that may become a future episode.

The event provided an opportunity for attendees to sample food and drinks featuring a Seacoast ingredient: softshell lobster. Redhook Brewery provided their Black Lobstah Lager, made from locally sourced softshell lobsters and oysters. Chefs from nine restaurants prepared lobster BLTs, risotto, tarts and many other creations to showcase the sweet flavor of softshell lobsters caught near the Seacoast.

Softshell lobsters tend to be easier to prepare for menu items because they lack a hard shell, and many chefs and consumers have indicated that softshell lobsters are more flavorful and succulent than hardshell lobsters.

Softshells are also more abundant than hardshells, particularly in warmer months, but lobstermen receive lower prices for them. Many lobstermen have expressed concern about this, noting that the high costs of fuel and bait coupled with low prices for softshells mean they are barely breaking even financially.

Representatives from Taylor Lobster Company, N.H. Fresh and Local Seafood, Fat Dog Oyster Company and the Seacoast Science Center attended the event to help educate the public about local seafood and healthy marine ecosystems.

For more information about local seafood, please visit www.nhseafood.com.

Growing blue mussels and reducing nutrients in N.H. waters

N.H. fishermen have been actively involved in raising steelhead trout just off the coast from Fort Constitution at the mouth of the Piscataqua River for the past two years. But the trout aren't the only living organism growing in the pens -- sugar kelp and blue mussels, both species that occur naturally in the Gulf of Maine, have been growing on the mooring lines for the trout nets. N.H. Sea Grant marine aquaculture specialist Michael Chambers said the kelp and mussels both help extract nutrients from the river and from the trout in the underwater nets. 

Tiny blue mussels, called “spat,” were collected from the wild and seeded on 4 m lines suspended around the trout cages. As filter feeders, they remove particulate matter and nutrients from the water surrounding the cages and coming in from the river. The mussels were raised to 40-60 mm before they were stocked in modified lobster pots by the seven N.H. fishermen that assist with the daily care and maintenance of the steelhead trout and their cages.

 

 

Last October, the fishermen placed the mussels in the lobster pots and moved them to deeper offshore waters to grow during the winter. After six months at sea, the mussels can be harvested and sold to local markets, providing additional revenue to the fishermen who are helping out with this project.

Stocking steelhead trout for aquaculture

Local fishermen are once again working with UNH professor of zoology Hunt Howell and NHSG/UNHCE aquaculture specialist Michael Chambers to raise steelhead trout in offshore cages. Last year's efforts were extremely successful, yielding fillets that were in high demand at local fish markets. The fishermen that helped out by feeding the fish and maintaining the nets received some of the profits last December, helping to keep them going amidst economic challenges that the fleet is facing. Howell and Chambers are once again leading these efforts for the 2013 field season with the help of lead fisherman Erik Anderson.

Three N.H. fishermen--Bill Marconi, his son Will and brother Vinny--recently helped to stock 300, 2/3-lb. trout in the fish pens just off the coast from Fort Constitution in New Castle. Mike from Sumner Brook Fish Farm in Ossipee, N.H., delivered the fish to the UNH pier.

Will lowered the fish to Bill and Vinny on the boat deck where the trout were placed in aerated tanks.

There were two pens waiting for the fish just around the corner from the pier. The trout were placed into one pen and covered with a net to prevent predation by birds.

Approximately eight local fishermen--many of the same individuals who helped with the project last year--will feed the fish and clean the nets again this year for harvest later in the fall.

Another 800, 1/3 lb. trout were temporarily stocked into a cage in the warmer waters of Great Bay at the UNH Jackson Estuarine Lab. Chambers is trying to determine the best weight and acclimation period at which to stock. The larger trout cost more to purchase from the fish farm, but the smaller fish will require more food to reach market weight. Chambers will run the calculations based on their growth this year and decide how to proceed in future years. 

What's growing at the UNH Pier? Spring 2013 edition

The longer days are allowing for a lot of growth going on at the UNH Judd Gregg Marine Research Complex--specifically, under the pier. NHSG/UNHCE aquaculture specialist Michael Chambers takes us on the tour:

Sugar kelp from the seeded line deployed this winter is now quite long and full. The kelp will be harvested soon and Michael is looking for local chefs and restaurants interested in trying it out on their menus.

This little lumpfish was hiding in the kelp. Lumpfish eat sea lice off other fish.

Here is a tiny sea urchin also hanging out in the kelp.

Michael is testing oyster growth under the piers. The wave action chips away the ragged edges of the shells, causing the oysters to grow a deeper cupped shell that leads to a meatier oyster. He hopes to test their ability to grow in offshore areas later this summer.

Mussels grow naturally on any line put into the water. Pending EPA approval, these mussels growing under the pier can be sold to local seafood markets and restaurants.

Local Restaurant hosts local food dinner featuring locally sourced fish

The All Local Dinner Menu

New Hampshire Sea Grant joined Chef Evan Mallett and Seacoast Local at his restaurant, The Black Trumpet Bistro, this past Tuesday night for a special dinner.  The meal was a 50-mile challenge local food dinner, part of Seacoast Local’s Field and Spoon Dinner series.  The event was sold out, with approximately 35 diners present.  NH Sea Grant, though not an event host, did support the dinner by donating the local seafood that Chef Mallett made the central features of his dinner.  The challenge of the dinner series was for the participating chefs to create a menu with local food sourced from a 50-mile radius a feat, which Mallett joked was a little difficult in March!

Buttermilk mackerel

Before people arrived, Dr. Gabriela Bradt, who was NH Sea Grant’s representative for 

the evening was invited into the kitchen as Evan and his staff were busy preparing the meal. Evan was thinly slicing the scallops that he had gotten from The R/V Rimrack and he was excited to show just how fresh they were. As he sliced into the scallops, they were still moving! Evan commented “you can’t get any fresher than this”. 

Fresh Scallops 

Chef Evan Mallett, Black Trumpet Bistro

The event began promptly at 6 PM and the downstairs dining area of the Black Trumpet was elegantly set and the atmosphere was warm and inviting.  As people were seated, the staff brought out a “Seren-dippity Spring Farmhouse Ale”, a beer specially blended for the event by Throwback Brewery located in North Hampton.  Shortly thereafter, the first course - a Raw scallop and Nettle brodo (broth) - was served.  

Dave Boynton, Seacoast Local

During this course, Seacoast Local Director Dave Boynton and board member, Amy Winans spoke about the dinner series and about the Seacoast Local mission and current programs and events.  Chef Mallett then came out and explained that he agreed to partner with Seacoast Local in putting on the event because he is a huge supporter and believer in the eat local movement. 

Sauteed Maine Shrimp

Mallett went on to “introduce” the menu and explain where all the food came from and how he had to “break the 50-mile rule” in order to obtain some of the ingredients (the Nettles for the brodo came from RI!).  Evan explained that all the seafood came from local dayboats because they only fished within that 50-mile radius. The seafood featured, shrimp, scallops, mackerel and hake all came either from Maine or directly from the Seacoast (R/V Rimrack and Seaport Fish). 

Salted hake chowder

After Evan finished speaking he excused himself because he was also preparing food for his regular customers!  The meal was served family style and proceeded with dish after dish, all beautifully presented. Towards the end of the meal, Dr. Bradt briefly spoke about NH Sea Grant’s involvement with the dinner and spoke about the efforts of NH Sea Grant and University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension to support the local fishing industry by encouraging people to buy from their local fishermen and other local seafood suppliers.  

Find fresh NH-caught seafood

Dr. Bradt directed the diners to the newly redesigned NHSeafood.com website to get more information about where to get NH-caught seafood and from whom.  She explained that in 2013, with the help of a steering committee made up of fishermen, chefs and other industry representatives, NH Sea Grant would be unveiling a marketing campaign and effort to promote the NH Fresh and Local seafood brand, holding events and participating in other programs in support of the local fishermen and the eat local movement.

Lots of diners interested in local seafood

After a delicious peach-based dessert, the dinner ended and from the conversation and the smiles all around, it seemed as if the event was a huge success.  The last in the dinner series will be held at the Kitchen on April 13.

Yummy peach dessert

Talking about how to protect the little guy…

As part of the “ Who Fishes Matters Tour” sponsored by the Northwest Atlantic Marine Alliance (NAMA) a forum on “Catch Shares and Community Safeguards” was held at the Portsmouth Public Library on March 4, 2013.  The forum was well attended, with a mixed audience ranging from UNH students, to local fishermen, academics and other community representatives.  The “ Who Fishes Matters” tour is an attempt to promote discussion across New England regarding better policies and protections for the fishing industry. 

The “ Catch Share and Community Safeguards” forum opened the discussion surrounding the proposed Amendment 18 to the groundfish management plan by the New England Fisheries Management Council (NEFMC) which will be up for consideration on Wednesday, March 6.  Amendment 18 would consider establishing accumulation caps and other issues associated with fleet diversity.  Accumulation caps would potentially provide protection to the smaller boat fleet diversity as well as limit any one entity from having disproportionate control of the total allowable catch.  The establishment of these safeguards and provisions in Amendment 18 are necessary since the implementation of the sector management and catch share system in New England in 2010.  In the two years since the sector management system was put in place, local fishermen have noted an increase in fleet consolidation has taken place.  Fleet consolidation means fewer and fewer smaller boats can keep fishing.  As of 2012 there has been approximately a 63% decrease in the New England groundfish fleet.

Catch share systems that have been implemented without any safeguards in other areas of the world have led to the collapse of the small boat fleets.  Ellen Goethel, the wife of local fisherman and NEFMC member, David Goethel, explained that because quota can be bought or leased within the catch share system, those with access to high amounts of capital- namely the larger boats - can quickly buy up all the quota, forcing others to have to lease to fish, which in many cases is unsustainable for smaller boats.  Interestingly, some of the safeguards that are currently being proposed as part of Amendment 18 such as 20% accumulation cap, had already been written into the catch share system in New England, but the NEFMC removed that provision.

Much of the discussion at Monday night’s forum centered around the 5 provisions being considered in Amendment 18 including:

1) Quota Caps

2) maintaining inshore and offshore fleets

3) quota set-asides

4) transparent leasing provisions

5) owner-operator provisions

Regarding the inshore-offshore fleets, some participants suggested that the only equitable way of dealing with larger boats fishing inshore would be to implement a system where boats would have to sign in to either fishing offshore or fishing inshore but that once declared, that boat could only fish in the declared area.  This would hopefully limit the large boats from fishing inshore and allow the less sea-worthy inshore fleet more access.  Most people agreed that pursuing Amendment 18 was worthwhile although some felt that in the end it might be a ‘too little, too late” situation, but that safeguards for protecting the smaller boats, the diversity of the fleet and the ability for the next generation to enter into fishing  was essential.

For more on the forum go to http://www.seacoastonline.com/articles/20130305-NEWS-303050390

UNH sugar kelp production

The fish pens in the Piscataqua River that normally hold steelhead trout are now teeming with another form of life — sugar kelp. This native species is being grown on lines this winter for eventual harvest in late spring when they reach 2-3 m in length. NHSG/UNHCE marine aquaculture specialist Michael Chambers says he expects to grow almost 50 kelp plants per meter of line, leading to a potential harvest weight of 1800 kg total — that’s almost 4,000 lbs of seaweed. 

Above: Aquaculture technician Jess Cranney holds a blade of sugar kelp near the pier at the UNH Judd Gregg Marine Research Complex in New Castle, N.H.

While they grow, the kelp will help extract excess nutrients like ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in the river. And for a waterway like the Piscataqua already impaired by too many nutrients, any bit of help is welcome. But the kelp’s final destination will be select markets for human consumption: once harvested, the kelp will be sent to Ocean Approved for processing and distribution as kelp slaw and kelp noodles. 

But how exactly do you grow kelp on lines? 

Sugar kelp “gametophytes” — the reproductive tissue in the kelp blade that releases spores into the environment — were collected from naturally occurring kelp growing on the fish pens under the pier. Once collected, the gametophytes were brought to Ocean Approved in Portland, Maine, where they were spawned in captivity. The kelp spores settled onto spools of twine and grown in tanks for two months. These spools were recently brought back to N.H. with the help of Sarah Redmond, marine extension associate from Maine Sea Grant and Paul Dobbins, co-owner of Ocean Approved.

Above: Sarah Redmond and Paul Dobbins demonstrate techniques for setting the seeded kelp twine onto a submerged grow-out line.

The spore lines were wrapped around a weighted rope and deployed into the empty fish pens. 

 

Above: Kelp spore line is wrapped around a Polyester line with weights.

 

Chambers says there is potential for local oyster farmers to grow kelp or other seaweeds on their sites in Great Bay, both as a way to increase revenue and decrease nutrient levels.